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It‘s a pleasure…
Think back to the plane bearing down on Cary grant in North by Northwest….wings flapping around Tippi Hedren in The Birds…the bloody shower scene in Psycho… the hypnotic swirling in Vertigo. It wouldn’t be an understatement to say that Hitchcock has created some of the most iconic images ever made.

So I’m thrilled to hear of the release on DVD of his first ever film, as a director “The Pleasure Garden” - A black and white silent film that deserves considerable fashion kudos for the immaculate Twenties fashion it captures in the exact era for which it was intended. The actresses on screen, with their lacquered waves of hair, cloche hats and rouged cupid bow lips, honestly made me physically emit numerous kinds of “oooh,ahh” sounds.

“The Pleasure Garden” was made in 1925 and concerns the melodramatic lives of two chorus girls. Melodrama, specifically melodrama of the roaring twenties that’s directed by a visual genius, is most certainly the perfect breeding ground for lavish and engaging costume styling.

I’ve been browsing through a series of film stills and the sumptuousness of the garments is no-less wonderful for being in monochrome. In fact, the black and white just reminded me that I was looking at a small portion of fashion history to be appreciated, relished and savoured…

Network is releasing Alfred Hitchcock’s The Pleasure Garden (PG) on DVD on 18th August 2008, RRP £5.99.

Posted by Jessica Fell

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Heart & Design: The design and fashion communities unite.
There’s nothing like a worthy cause to bring together the crème de la crème of designers….and it seems that the likes of Alber Elbaz, Emilio Pucci, Giles Deacon, Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Matthew Williamson, Roland Mouret, and Tom Dixon have all deemed the Royal Brompton hospital a very worthy cause. See the full incredible list of designer who are participating by clicking here.

Heavyweights in the fashion and design worlds will each be creating a one-off piece or prototype in aid of the Royal Brompton & Harefield Hospital Charitable Fund. These pieces will be on public display from Saturday 13th September until the night of the auction, at Christie’s in South Kensington on Monday 15th September 2008. A selection of emerging young designers will also be creating unique pieces to be showcased and sold in a silent auction.

Royal Brompton & Harefield NHS Trust is the largest specialist heart and lung centre in the UK and I would bet my bottom dollar that the impressive array of designers will be putting all their heart and soul into creating some ridiculously stunning auction pieces for the hospital.

Here at fashion156.com we wait with baited breath to see the results…and as soon as we get to see them, we will post the images here.

More information available at heartanddesign.org or to make a donation.

Posted by Jessica Fell

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Ever been accused of having your head in the clouds?
Well, let me tell you, that's not such a bad thing. The 'Cloud hair' look is quite simple: wear it big with lots of volume- through curls, crimps or general fluffiness (no longer does frizz exist...it's fluff!).

As for the colour- it's got to be light, preferably white! But if that's too much I think it's fair to settle on a light blonde. Just take a gander at the beauty shoot in the new 'Cloud Watching' issue of fashion156 if you want to know what I’m talking about.

Ludvig (pictured above) works at “The Laden Showroom” on Brick lane, he had some of the most gorgeous and touchable hair I’d seen in a long time. I was also really quite charmed by the fact that some natural roots were creeping out, giving the lightness in colour of the dyed hair even more impact.

The picture of the girl above, from The Style Scout indicates that hardcore cloud hair is very much out there to be found- I predict more and more people are going to abandon the blonde impish crop that has been muchly muchly popularised recently and turn to this wilder, cloudy look. Only recently, on the Stockholm Catwalks at WhyRed's S/S 09 show I saw cloud hair in abundance!

I should also say, If anyone wants to really take cloud hair to the next level they can easily do the 'candyfloss hair' look... same principle, but dyed a pastel pink!

Words and visuals by Jessica Fell.

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Lovebox: Love fashion, Love music…
Music and fashion have always been linked; it’s a rather incestuous situation, with record labels producing clothing, clothing labels producing bands, models becoming musicians and designers doing DJ sets… Indeed musical artistes are just as likely to be seen in the front row of a fashion show as at their own gig. I can confirm that I have without doubt seen more articles on “festival fashion” than on the music actually being played at the festivals.

So, at Lovebox last weekend I was not surprised to see a plethora of musicians dressing up in their most dashing gig attire. Hatcham Social caught my eyes (after catching my ears first) with an aura of Eclectic-Grandfather style. The singer donned sludge brown loosely tailored trousers that managed to look nonchalantly brilliant when paired with a fisherman-like jumper and a clashing shirt of florals and polka dots.

After Hatcham Social, Dead Kids burst on to the stage like hyperactive children buzzing from a packet of Haribo Starmix. The lead singer was merely a blur of bejewelled all-black as he gyrated (and thrusted) over the stage and into the audience. As he crowd surfed, with arms raised in the air, I caught sight of his singularly gloved hand (I‘m pretty positive he was emulating Mr. Jackson rather than just having lost the other one with his frantic movements) - there’s a fashion statement if ever I saw one! The keyboardist was rather impressive also, with a plastic looking jacket printed like the star spangled banner, an outfit so bad, I believe, that it had veered back round to looking pretty awesome again.


Mr Hudson (Frontman of Mr.Hudson & the Library) might have run straight from a catwalk to the festival: in a fitted white T-shirt with extremely (and I mean extremely) baggy, low-crotched, pinstriped tailored trousers, with a guitar slung across his chest. Of the bigger acts, Goldfrapp took the fashion prize. Alison floated on stage in a dress of streaming ribbons befitting her ethereal looks and the windy day.

…I think it’s plain to see that Music and fashion are clearly in a rock-solid, loving relationship… and I’m very happy for them.

Posted by Jessica Fell

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The Wall Project - Part 2
A few weeks ago, Guy emailed me with a rather exciting proposition. Dermalogica Kensington had asked if he would be interested in taking up a wall space within the store.

As mentioned last week I have been handed the exciting task of creating approximately six metres by three metres of beautiful wall space which somehow captures the spirit of 156. This will be a running commentary on my progress, my ideas- and my frustrations no doubt, but above all a countdown to the grand unveiling sometime in august when you’ll all be able to come and view it for yourself!

Part Deux
After a weekend at Latitude Festival- where the revellers were impossibly stylish and well-kempt, and creativity was an almost tangible air over the whole to-do (I urge you to check out Dockers MC- a fast-talking London poet, and Soko, a sweet-talking Parisian singer). But I digress.

Prior to leaving I had sketched out three illustrations, and come up with something resembling a layout, so I am working at ‘filling in the gaps’ so to speak- finding words to go where words are due, and making a more definite colour scheme- colour being the operative word. In fact if anyone has suggestions of articles they have loved etc then please say so I can feed something of that into the wall… or in fact any suggestions at all- what does fashion156 represent to you?

The next few days are shaping up to be painting cutting and sticking-based; with some light photography thrown in for good measure as the wall is becoming distinctly collage-like. Think along the lines of the work that has been on the blog for the past few days. I will keep you posted as to how its going, although at this rate, the answer may well be ‘slowly’… creating the file at even a quarter of the size is making even my usually super-efficient mac verrrry slow.
Bethx

Posted by Beth Davis

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My New Red Shoes
Well I did my little bit today towards the economy and for that I can feel good about myself: "Hello, red shoes. Thank you Limited Collection Marks and Spencer!"

The girl at the checkout looked at the shoes and gave me a knowing look, then glanced at the open bag of chocolate brazils I held in my hand:

"Yes, I know," I said, "Chocolate brazils and red shoes in my lunch break. I must owe myself something!" (Well I do owe myself something...Chocolate and shoes, duh.)

That made us giggle.

Posted by Cassandra Solon-Parry

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Style Tips from Gotham City
As always Batman is getting super-style points with his indestructible moulded bat-suit with lots of muscular detail, pointed ears and classic black cape but I'd like to put in a good word for the underdog.

Despite shocking hair-care and misguidedly applied make-up the Joker's get up has never looked so good: hexagonally patterned shirt, blue pinstripe trousers, olive green waistcoat and faded gold and black tie. The fitted purple trench-coat with red lining that he wears over the top is beautiful and I even like the multi-coloured squares on his socks.

I suppose that being a super-villain is all about cultivating a very unique look - the kind that is easily recognizable in the papers. I think we can take something from that: my comrades in fashion, always stay true to yourselves and never just follow the crowd or people will forget who you are.

I reckon it's only the oversized toe on the Joker's brogues that really suggests lunacy to me, and he looks like he needs a good dusting. The very tight knot of his tie is telling also. You should take care not to knot your tie like that. It shrieks stress.

Posted by Cassandra Solon-Parry

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Bangle Romance
My new obsession is with bangles, which can be real statement pieces in an outfit or worn more subtlety just to compliment an outfit. The great thing is that it is possible to wear just one, or to mix it up by wearing an assortment of different sizes, patterns and colours. They can add texture to an outfit and at the moment, chunky wooden bangles are great for summer.

Whilst searching for bangles, I stumbled across Cadence Designs on Etsy where there is a beautiful selection of decoupaged bangles. They are all unique and handmade. I really like the ones made from old maps which remind me of hidden treasure maps. I love the fact that these bangles have a sense of the past about them, for example with the cut up French book pages. The musical notes bangle would compliment the romantic trend, going well with ruffle dresses and florals.

I also found some pretty bangles at Vintage Jo. I like the cutout shape and romantic floral print of the two above. I'll definitely be keeping my eyes peeled for bangles this summer: it's my favourite accessory of the moment.

Posted by Emily Chan.

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Swinging the Forties All-in-One
These all-in-ones are reproductions of swing dance inspired forties day wear, by Vivien of Holloway.  It’s like having your bracers and trousers in one!  It’s where the elegance of the pleated trouser meets the playfulness of the playsuit.  I think they’d look great with spats, as is traditional but equally elegant with a pair of spindly heels.  A very jaunty option for strolling about town methinks.  

You can buy them online or find directions to Vivien’s shop, if you fancy an outing, at vivienofholloway.com.  

Posted by Cassandra Solon-Parry.

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Dream Shoes
I romanticise things. I spend my days framing things as a still image in my minds eye- composing the everyday. These shoes were so perfect against the floor boards and the wall. I loved the steely greys and blue-ish whites- the glimpse of hem that left the rest of the dress entirely to your own imagining. They weren’t my size, but I can’t help feel that I have had far more mileage out of the photograph than I ever would have the shoes themselves.

Words and visual by Beth Davis

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Fake Glasses: Do or Don’t?
The other day I drew back from buying myself a pair of fake glasses – black frames with clear lenses. A man with a sunglasses stall was selling them outside UniQlo on Oxford Street and I tried them on, admired my fabulousness in the mirror and was about to buy, BUT as I reached for my purse, I remembered that wearing pretend glasses is basically a silly thing to do.

Yes, I know that it’s been a big trend in recent times but something in me still revolts. Isn’t it like wearing a sling because you think it looks cool…or is it not at all like that? I’m not sure. Or would wearing a sling because it looked cool be okay? A week later I am still having this rather Nathan Barley-esque mental debate, in moments not filled by more pressing considerations. Currently, I am leaning towards the verdict that, although frivolous, the fake glasses are not an altogether ridiculous accessory…and next time I’m on Oxford Street I shall at least try them on again. Am I wrong?

Posted by Cassandra Solon-Parry.

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All signs point to Pointelle...
As I look out the window the weather can best be described as 'hmpffh' - Not that great, but not that bad either... Now I’ll tell you why, despite seeming rather glum, this current 'hmpffh' climate is actually a positive thing. The reason is quite simply all to do with Pointelle.

Pointelle, the lace of knit! I’ve blogged about my love of lace before, so you can imagine that a knitted sort of lace easily gets my attention. Especially one as delicate and pretty as Pointelle is liable to be. By virtue of being lightweight and far cooler than a solid knit, Pointelle knit is perfect for the recent limbo weather (does it want to get sweltering hot, does it want to rain?).

The actual point of this blog and what got me started on this Pointelle-rant were the very cute Pointelle skirts, one by Urban Outfitters and the other by Kimchi & Blue, both on sale now for £9.99 and available at urbanoutfitters.co.uk. Whilst I have loads of Pointelle cardies, jumpers and even socks, until now, I hadn’t managed to get my hands on a Pointelle knit skirt. I’m thinking I’ll seek out some Pointelle knit trousers next (and you think I’m joking!).

Words and Visuals by Jessica Fell

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Not Playing The Game
These are difficult times for conversation piece clothes: Why?

If you don't know about 'The Game' already then you need to be warned.  The Game: Penetrating the Secret Society of Pick-Up Artists is a book by a man named Neil Strauss which teaches the 'average frustrated chimp' how to 'pick up' girls.  I'm not totally against the idea of this self-help manual - I mean, as a girl I've been in plenty of situations when I wished that a boy would just come over and talk to me but he's been too shy to do that, so I am all for levelling the playing field as it were.  Except my life post-game-book is just getting RIDICULOUS - Currently I cannot sit on a train without some game-playing boy leaning in to say, 'I like your bag - where's it from?' or 'Where do you buy your clothes?  You have unusual style.'  

It's really difficult to tell them to go away because a) that's rude b) I know that these boys already suffer from insecurity so don't want to upset them further c) why should I have to get stroppy with people when I try to keep a cool demeanor at all times?  

On the other hand I have no real sympathy for them since I know that 'Game' players approach and try to get the numbers of as many girls as possible - so I know that however attentive they might seem, I'm not special.  The only solution seems to be to not attract this kind of attention in the first place.  I think this involves being totally invisible: my anti-game gear plan includes a dark coloured hoodie with dark grey jeans and plain black plimsols that make no sound when I walk.  I shall pull the hood up when the 'pick-up artist predator' starts trying to engage me in pointless rambling, and run fast when he tries to accost me in the street with 'you have magic eyes.'

Good luck girls.

Posted by Cassandra Solon-Parry

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Bloomers
When did cashmere get so naughty?  It was such a good girl fabric last time I checked but now Kiki de Monterpasse has made these bloomers out of the stuff that look so sensual I get embarrassed looking at them…but I want some nonetheless.  They’re obviously vintage inspired but while a pair of frilly cream coloured knickerbockers (though also desirable) look enormously kitsch this update is modern and cool and I can take them seriously.  Yep, those are no-kidding knickers.  

I’d like to thank www.kristopherdukes.com blog for alerting me to their existance.

Posted by Cassandra Solon-Parry.

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The world on your shoulders
'Like a baby eagle, or a baby giraffe, or any young animal for that matter, we are finding our feet in the world... We are a fashion label with high aspirations.'

So far, so random. The label is called Pete Versus Toby and they seem to specialise in making big t-shirts of the kind that I find myself continuously wearing, despite the fact my mum used to strut around in them in the late eighties, matched with pink and black striped-leggings. In other words-massive, almost dress-like in volume plastered with hipster-ish (and very ironic) graphics.

Those are kinda cute, though it's the big silk t-shirts, printed with images of the Earth and NYC, that raises the label from just being another t-shirt brand. That, and some interesting accessories- denim and leather backpacks, - plus some outerwear like the bronze leather bomber above, and the printed hoodie with giant drawstrings. What's their appeal? I prefer all-over prints to small mean little ones and the planet looks great all over a t-shirt in big, bold colours. Who cares if I'd look like Google Earth wearing one?

Just another note- as you can tell, this label's from Australia like a lot of the ones I seem to be posting about at the minute. It seems there's loads of great Aussie menswear labels doing the rounds at the moment doing exactly the edgy, sports-inspired pieces I want... maybe there's something in the water.

Posted by Elliott James Sainsbury

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Wherefore art thou sunglasses?
Sunglasses are my porridge. Goldilocks was forever fussing over the temperature of her oats- they were either too hot or too cold. I sympathise - sunglasses at the moment are either too big for me, too small, too wayfarer-ey, too plastic, too bright, too metallic...too everything. Whereas Goldilocks eventually found her porridge that was just right, I’m still looking for my sunglasses.

The problem, rather than not liking the sunglasses in stores, is my reluctance to follow sunglassy trends...and at present there seems to be a uniformity everywhere I look. I'm definitely not going to wear a pair of Wayfarers, I’m unsure about most of the really bright plastic framed ones, Aviators feel a bit too safe and I worry about looking like a footballers wife wannabe if I wear dark hugely oversized ones. I thought I’d found the answer when I saw heart shaped frames- that's cute I thought, I could dig those- and then heart shaped frames were everywhere. Once again, my desire for uniqueness while maintaining ocular protection was foiled.

Places that do offer a slightly wider and affordable selection (i.e. Topshop) are the types of places that should you purchase from them, you have to accept the likelihood of sunbathing next to someone in the same frames (even if you're on some remote beach in Bulgaria). So you're not achieving uniqueness anyway.

I do not accept not wearing what I perceive to be unique and attractive sunglasses. I didn't accept the new smarties tube (Hexagonal I tell you!) and I won't accept this. My salvation might come from Ebay (If you have the dedication there are goodies to be had) and places like vintage-sunglasses and Linda Farrow. Asos has some vintage designer sunglasses that got me quite excited and are good for ideas even if you can't afford them. I'm pretty keen on an extremely pointy Cat Eye pair by Dior. In the spirit of positivity, I am hopeful that soon I’ll find a pair to make me exclaim with goldilocks-like vigour: 'Ahh, these sunglasses are just right!'.

Posted by Jessica Fell, Visuals by William Chiu
Pictured (From top to bottom):

Paloma Picasso Vintage Sunglasses .
Authentic asymmetric Vintage Sunglasses -Ebay .
Christian Dior Vintage Sunglasses @ Asos .
iWood ecodesign: Organic Macassar Ebony Sunglasses .
Alain Mikli sunglasses .

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On The Street
Why do we notice someone? I find myself asking this all the time. Why does one person stand out in a crowd, especially in a place such as London, where the streets are overrun with not only style, but substance- the ideas and history and creativity to have fed into each look. For whatever the reason, I noticed these two.

Photographed and posted by Beth Davis

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Yellow like the Sunshine
Yellow tights have been yelling for my attention ever since the Floral issue.  Now they seem to be everywhere I look and have comfortably seeped into my sartorial consciousness – I can feel myself tuning up to working my wardrobe around the yellow tights. Make way for high contrast outfits – a rich blue dress with yellow legs, a shocking red slip with…yuh huh…and for the grand finale a purple frock to clash. I’m hoping to see lots of other people doing the same because I think we must bring more colour to these very grey days. So don’t say you weren’t warned. Once again there will be a reason for wearing shades.

Get over to mytights.com if you want a pair to call your own.

Posted by Cassandra Solon-Parry

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You’ll be a Grandma Too, One Day
All little girls grow up to be grandmas one day and, looking around, something pretty catastrophic seems to happen to wardrobes somewhere along that timeline. There’s a lot of beige, a lot of carpet slippers, macs and more beige in the form of cardigans. Personally, I’m planning ahead now to stop these things from happening to me in later life.

My own grandmamma, Topsy, is showing me the way in setting a good example of how to be seventy-something with style. She’s a proper nana in that she crochets and knits while watching TV but her creations are a far cry from the wooly jumper that you didn’t want for Christmas. I am so, so envious of her homemade ground length ‘airport’ cardigan (shown above) which she says doubles as her travel blanket on trips abroad.

Don’t you love her hair? Her style inspiration was Cruella De Vil!

Posted by Cassandra Solon-Parry

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