September 2008
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June 2007

Daughters of Obedient Sons
With a spring design motto quoting Timothy Leary’s famous “Turn on, tune in, and drop out,” I was half-expecting husband-and-wife design duo of Daughters of Obedient Sons to send their models down the runway in tie-dyed tunics, bare feet, and beaded leather vests. Rather, the look for their SS09 collection held true to their inspiration, with a ‘luxury commune’ feel, rather reminiscent of a misty spring morning spent in the gardens of Leary’s own Millbrook Mansion in upstate New York.

Floral suits, tiny tops paired with high-waist trousers and shorts, chunky laces, and cool linens all in a relaxed natural palette were all in show. These shots from backstage are just a few examples of this nouveau-sixties inspired collection. My favourite is that doodled blazer.

Daughters of Obedient Sons entire collection, with their bucket hats and cosy colour palette, remind me of standing on a cool beach on a cloudy day. So whether you see a definitive sixties vibe, or just a relaxed tone, they have certainly made some impression this season.


Posted by: Gaia Bonini



Robert Geller
Robert Geller, menswear designer and recent favourite of mine, showed in New York on Friday. He says his inspiration came from the gypsies of Eastern Europe, but I find his collection reads more like a spooky gentlemen’s club.

His models would look quite at home in a dusty abandoned cobweb-filled room, sipping brandy and smoking cigars. His pale and dark-eyed models, with their dark hair slicked back wore formals made for night: shawl-collared jackets, tuxedo vests, wide-striped pants in blues, blacks, and greys. Lush velvet jackets, limpy buttoniers and bow-ties, they look rather like the lost boys of the society set.

Posted by: Gaia Bonini

All New York backstage photography by Mark Reay, further images and information @ www.backstagesideshow.com .

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Michael Angel
Dark eyes and blotch-dyed flowing silks were backstage of Michael Angel’s show. The streaked dyes, and long dresses, jackets, and suits, bring a spring side to a soft romantic mood carried over from last summer's shows.

Posted by: Gaia Bonini



Lacoste
Happy models backstage of Lacoste’s SS09 show in New York. Each donning a twisted turban for the Christophe Lemaire directed fashion show. Breezy, cool cottons in pale hues of sand and stone paired with rope and leather belts, casually smiling faces, and handbags full of wildflowers remind me of a stylish African holiday.

Posted by: Gaia Bonini

All New York backstage photography by Mark Reay, further images and information @ www.backstagesideshow.com .

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Sadak
Sadak's current collection, "Lapot" is based on the Serbian tradition of killing the elder family members once they become so old they prove to be a burden to their family. Now living and working in Berlin, the Serbian designer's creations hold a strong ethnographic tie to his motherland's traditional attire, echoing for me, an element of the ritualistic.

Through the application of black-on-black lace details and embroidered edging on his shroud-like garments, he invokes a real Middle Ages/Byzantine feel while retaining a fashion-forward approach with glossy, textured fabrics and a tailored finish.

One of my favourite pieces from this collection, a jacket with a cloak-like hood and broad chest panels manages to lie somewhere between a Baracuta harrington and ancient funeral robe.

The collection as a whole seems to embody various characters all with, in my eyes, a medieval thrust. In fact, these looks are not at all dissimilar to the fateful faces of the Tarot deck, for instance the final few pieces have a jester-like quality, bringing striped leggings and whole lot more colour to the collection, while the embroidered silver pieces that drape off the shoulder and feature low, billowing crotches have a knightly quality.

The idea of embodying a character through dress has always kept me tied to fashion, and is definitely something I unwittingly look for with every season. Sadak's blend of fantasy and street led me to consider bringing some mystic realness to my day look, reappropriating casual staples like the hoodie under a trench or long windbreaker all in dark solid shades replete with silver accessories, chains and the like.

I'm intrigued to know what else Sadak is capable of. The way his collections translate from this morose tale of euthanasia into this display of exploding silhouettes leaves me eagerly anticipating further parallels he'll draw between fashion and tradition.

Posted by Philip Gamble

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Not So Visionary
My want for glasses in my younger years has finally caught up with me, only now I’m not so sure I feel the same way. The current trend for wearing glasses has strangely made me more unwilling to wear them, for fear of being donned a fashion victim. Will I have to walk around telling people the digits of my prescription in order for them to believe that I do indeed need a pair?

To me the face is the most prominent part of a person, the first thing people look at, therefore what you put over it has got to be right. They’ve also got to go with whatever you’re wearing, because unless you can afford to have a different pair of glasses to go with each change of outfit, it’s inevitable.

I’ve been on the search for the right pair for a while now. In the meantime my eyes are probably getting worse - they’ll just have to wait. There were e few appearances of glasses on the catwalk this season including at Michael Kors and Sonia Rykiel. I found the perfect pair a while back, Ray-Bans with a tortoise shell square frame, but when I went back to get them I was informed that they had been discontinued. So I’m out on the hunt again next weekend.

Posted by Samara Tompsett

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Cloaks & Capes
On a grey and foggy morning early in September, I felt at a loss for what to wear over my jeans and sweater. A coat would be too warm and the sweater alone too cold. I suddenly remembered an old Paul & Joe hooded tweed cloak tucked in the back of my wardrobe. After a bit of digging, I found it, wore it all day, and couldn’t have been cozier.

Capes and cloaks bring to mind top hats, canes and pocket watches…or was it red shiny superheroes? But actually they are a smart and stylish choice for this awkward weather time between summer and fall.

New York cloak designer Lindsey Thornburg believes that cloaks are timeless and unattached to any trend. Her collection of hoods and cloaks are available in an array of colors and patterns, most of which are reversible, adding versatility to her already unique silhouettes.

Posted by: Gaia Bonini

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Stay Snug
I’m sure you’ve noticed the distinct change in the air over the last couple of days. Personally I still feel summery but I can’t deny it’s become a little chilly, or dare I say wintery. In temperatures like this it’s nice to be a little cosy, and something with a high neck is often the key.

For guys too, swapping a shirt for a turtleneck can give that little extra warmth. Taking cue from the latest offerings from Alexander McQueen, teaming a high neck sweater with a suit jacket might be the look that can carry you through to spring – plus you get to ditch the tie.

Posted By Samara Tompsett

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A Bit Patchy
If we were playing Blankety Blank and the word was ‘patchwork’, my three answers would be quilt, doll and elephant (as in Elmer). Thoughts of patchwork often leave me reminiscing over childhood memories that are locked at the back of mind. However, I’m now rediscovering patchwork in a different way and am fascinated by the possibility of integrating more colour, texture and patterns into my outfits.
 
The spark of this rediscovery came from an image on Style Scout (right), where the girl had made the dress herself. It has a certain handmade charm about it, which patchwork often has, and I love the combination of reds and blues. I was also inspired by Ranna from Only Shallow with her patchwork dress, where the mixture of different plaids work together to give quite a cutesy look. I think patchwork is a great way to work the onslaught of plaid we have around us at the moment.
 
Jessica mentioned the other day her mission to find two contrasting shirts, cut each one in half and sew the opposite halves together. The same sort of idea could be used to create a patchwork dress, but this time it would involve cutting lots of little squares.
 
Be warned, I might be seen trawling through charity shops, picking up any plaid and striped items that come into sight.  

Posted by Emily Chan

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It Would Make Miss Valerie Scream
When late for Ballet lessons my friend, Jess, and I would often run to class wearing our relevant ballet, tap, or jazz shoes, much to the despair of Miss Valerie. Despite her pleas my dancing shoes are now the staple footwear of my wardrobe. My genuine dancing pumps provide comfort (except on stony ground or in wet whether) and they go with anything. Freeds of London is a good place to look for dancing streetwear, they are available online or there’s a store in Covent Garden. But be aware that you probably won’t be singing in the rain.

The safer option is to go for the ubiquitous highstreet ballet pump as seen in places like Topshop or H&M. But if you want to be spoilt for choice and overwhelmed by variations in colour, fabric, texture and pattern, visit French Sole. If you’re feeling a little risqué go for a low cut pair to show off more toe cleavage. They’re more expensive than highstreet choices but if you ask anyone who owns a pair or two they’ll tell you that they are the ultimate in comfy footwear, and endurable. I think I’m going to invest.

Posted by Samara Tompsett

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Andreas Sjödin
We all know that the forecast for winter is goth. Inky colors, hard lines, and dark beauty; each designer has made it quite clear that these are their thoughts for fall. Which is why this softer approach by photographer Andreas Sjödin is so refreshing. It is still dark and spooky, yet there is nothing too scary about these images.

I mostly love the contrast between the looks created and the location. In a place where we would usually expect to see smiling girls in white linen summer dresses with braids and flowers in their hair, we instead see something entirely different. That opposition is so stunning.

Posted by: Gaia Bonini

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Bentley Rhythm Case
I used to play the violin, and carrying the oddly shaped case around was not something that I remember fondly. But if you’re always jealous of the guys in the band or fancied yourself as a bit of a rock star, then here’s your chance to jump on the bandwagon.

A cross between a sports hold-all and a guitar case, the new bag by Central Saint Martins graduate Stefano Beruschi is sure to put a staccato in your step. Made from a flexible nylon it’s likely to handle corners a little better than the real thing, and carry a lot more than your guitar.

Posted by Samara Tompsett

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Studded Tights
I have always wanted a pair of sequined tights; and yes, I’ve considered the completely covered legging versions, but my dream tights are semi- sheer with sequins dotted more randomly.

I know they may seem a bit over the top, and quite impossible to make given that it is the nature of tights to run when poked through. They also sound incredibly uncomfortable and all around ridiculous…but you know they would look amazing. Picture it, a little black ensemble finished off with a set of truly glistening legs. Sigh, in my dreams I guess.

But I have no problem settling with an extremely close and also incredibly cute second: these studded tights from Bebaroque . You can wear the studs in either the back or the front (so it seems from the image above) for quite different effects, but both are equally shiny and should abate my sequin desire. Guy, our fashion director also used a pair on this issue’s all black fashion pages.

Posted by: Gaia Bonini

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A Conversation with Edith Head
I saw a play just the other night in Leicester Square Theatre called A Conversation with Edith Head. It was a one-woman play retelling the memoirs of Edith Head, costumier of the stars. Edith Head dressed every major Hollywood icon of the more glamorous years, earning herself eight Academy Awards for best costume design in her forty-four years of work.

Her designs were simply exquisite, and she worked with hundreds of stars including: Barbara Stanwyck, Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Ginger Rogers, Elizabeth Taylor and Marlene Dietrich.

Most enviable though, was the signature necklace she wore. A sort of baublesque charm necklace made entirely of antique ivory theatre tickets. In the olden days, (the imitation Edith Head tells the audience) these coin-shaped ivory pieces were used as passes for admittance to the opera. Each is engraved with the name of the opera house, the seat number, and the name of the holder.

All due respect to Ms. Head…but I want one. Now, I’ve no idea where to find priceless antique ivory opera passes, but how about trying one with poker chips instead? Or arcade tokens? Or why not an animal friendly version like this more colourful LeJu necklace made of dyed vegetable ivory? The possibilities for my…or perhaps your…signature necklace are endless.

Posted by Gaia Bonini

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Browline Frames
Glancing upon this look from Hans Christian Madsen's MAN show from the last LFW, I was glad to see this particular style of frame sported on the runway. As somebody who doesn't wear glasses (although I'm supposed to) they're definitely something I seem to have a lot of opinions on.

First of all, I'm sick to the back teeth of black plastic NHS style frames, which I know have pretty much transcended fad status and now merely exist as a staple for anybody wanting to dress around their eyewear, but they're everywhere. Secondly, much as I love Giles Deacon-esque aviator style glasses, it takes a certain type of face to really carry them, one that I definitely don't have. Plus, I feel there's a latent Jonathan-King-creepy factor waiting to unleash itself on an undeserved victim which puts me off a little.

However, one style I've always been a little charmed by, so much as to snap up a pair from eBay (I've not had the lenses fitted yet), is the 1940's Browline frame, supported on the top with a thick, oak coloured angular bar with the rest of the thin gold frame looking a little more inconspicuous, giving your look an air of stern rigidity, and very much in keeping with one particular aspect of Autumn's trend stories, taking inspiration from some of the early 20th century's forward-thinkers.

If you're looking for a classic model, Shuron's Ronsir style should put you in good stead, available unscathed from many eBay suppliers.

Posted by Philip Gamble
Image from Hans Christian Madsen's MAN show A/W 08/09.

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Flower Head
Far too often do I ignore the top of my head. Sure, I may throw a hat up there on a particularly bad hair day, but rarely do I think of it as a place to make my fashion statement. Well I shall ignore no more. Why not start from the top and work your down?

I love these giant floral headpieces. They are such a runway look but can be worn quite easily with nearly everything. I like the idea of wearing something quite haphazard, so am planning on making some giant flowers out of paper. Milliners Philip Treacy and Chloe Scrivener are two of the many specialists, if you need something ready-to-go.

Posted by Gaia Bonini

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Shades of Black
Inspired by this issue’s black theme I have been pondering the many different moods and personalities that black can have. As it is one of the most widely used shades in fashion, I suppose that just shows what a versatile colour it is. As other colours have their default personalities, (which I admit are really just there to be subverted) such as pink automatically equals girly, blue equals nautical etc. Black really is multi faceted!

This season designers have used black to convey so many different messages and moods. From Luella’s ‘Teen Goth’, to Givenchy’s religious inspired black, which is reminiscent of gothic Catholic churches. Prada has used black this season to convey ultimate sophistication and glamour.

These illustrations are just my interpretation of some of the different looks that black can have, from spooky and sinister to glamorous and refined. Black conjures up so many feelings and moods to different people. But for me, black is magical, mysterious, bewitching and timeless.

Illustration and words posted by Emily Rand

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Hand-Me-Downs
I’m not adverse to wearing my Mum’s or indeed my Nan’s old clothes. In fact the coat I’m wearing today used to belong to my Nan, and is not only often worn by myself, but from time to time by my flatmates as well.

If I took a look in my Grandad’s wardrobe I’m sure I could draw out more than a few items that would sell well in Rokit, Beyond Retro or Absolute Vintage. The trend for dressing older, in men especially has been heightened by the ‘geek’ craze for knitted cardigans and brown corduroy trousers. For those who don’t have a grandad who’ll let them borrow his cardi, visit Mendoza on Brick Lane. After all, aren’t girls attracted to older men, and wisdom supposedly comes with age?

Posted by Samara Tompsett

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0.35mm Per Day
I’ve been trying to grow my hair, and despite friends remarking on the apparently rapid rate of its growth, it feels like I’ve been doing so for ages. I am now at that point in the journey at which I need to start doing something with it. When hair is long it stops being a fashion accessory on its own, in the way that say a sharp bob is. It has to be preened and manipulated, pulled and stuck.

The hairstyles that I used to be subjected to required “how to books” full of diagrams and multiple arrows. There were rope plaits, scrunch plaits and French braids. Buns, bunches and upside-down ponytails.

As the messy, just-got-up look comes to an end, and so to the poker straight-ironed look, there is a tendency towards the more complex up-dos that haven’t made an appearance in a while. Yohji Yamamoto’s AW collection was particularly detailed in the hair department. It was weaved, twisted and plaited around the heads of the models. With this as inspiration and You Tube tutorials at the ready it’s time to give it a go. Practice makes perfect.

Posted by Samara Tompsett

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Less is….well, less.
I’m sure there are many teenagers who, as I did, sigh when their mum tells them not to wear shoes without socks. Apparently feet can breath better when covered in yet another layer of fabric - I know, I was perplexed too.

But it seems as always that the parent is right, wearing naked feet - especially in leather - causes uncomfortable sweating and stickiness. This is why I find the recent trend for men wearing brogues, loafers, mocs and similar heavy leather shoes, with no sock in sight slightly worrying (especially for their partners). The style is at it’s best worn with cuffed or rolled trousers and a tanned ankle, but it’s advisable to take precautionary measures before going bare.

The male pop sock is a popular option, made from a sheer fabric and tan in colour the sock is hidden just below the rim of the shoe. Tabio stock a male sockette in UK sizes 9 to 12. Failing that you might find a pot of Rose scented talc in the back of mum’s cupboard next time you visit.

All images: thesartorialist

Posted by Samara Tompsett

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G-listen Up!
Mine is a house in which strange objects turn up and subsequently leave again. Some find their relevant owners, others find new owners, but every now and again an item may stay. One such recent new addition to the house was a very old and very used bottle of gold glittery nail varnish.

After making the minimum effort to locate its owner I decided to make use of the paint. I’ve worn it now for two or three days and accepted many admirations from the people around me, each with an accompanying story of their own long gone pot.

I have come to the conclusion that the glitter nail varnish of our childhood has long surpassed its time for revival. I therefore ask everyone, boy or girl to help me reinstate glitter as the forerunner in the market of nail accessory. We no longer need worry about lumps or streaks, glitter nail varnish alleviates the usual hassles that come with the art of the painted nail. Barry M have created a great range of glittery nail varnishes that are available at Topshop. Instead of the usual thin liquid with a few sparkles, this is thick and full of glitter. Try mixing it up with one layer of a colour then a second layer of another shade.

Posted by Samara Tompsett

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Further into the Darkness
Nikoline Liv Andersen is a Danish designer and previous winner of the +46 award. What struck me most about her designs were the awe-inspiring structures and exaggerated silhouettes. I thought it appropriate, although she has done some very colourful and vibrant pieces, to divulge into some of her darker work, which is so very relevant this season.

Her work using the colour black has that gothic and dark romance element that we have been surrounded with this a/w 08 season. Some of the pieces play with the concept of confinement, especially with the masks, collars and the netting. I love the puffed sleeves and the ruffled collar, which has a hint of Elizabethan costume about it and gives a slightly theatrical feel. The different fabrics create an amazing sense of texture, with the more romantic sheers and lace mixed in with tougher latex and leather.

Images from her exhibition also inspired me through the painted faces, which reminded me slightly of the Joker from The Dark Knight, and the bandages that add to the sense of horror. The mood is again rather dark and sombre.

The main reasons behind my liking of Nikoline Liv Andersen’s work are the amazing silhouettes that she creates and the dark romantic feel obtained from many of her pieces. I’m now persuaded even more to embrace this darker side of fashion, and perhaps experiment with a ruff collar once in a while.

Posted by Emily Chan.

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